We set up our base for this trip in Nice, in a quieter part of the city (the La Madeleine neighbourhood), and, as usual, we found our accommodation through the site Booking.com. Nice plays the role of the ideal base for the whole region from the outset: it has a spacious pebble beach, an old town core, an airport ten or so minutes away and a network of fast trains that will have you in another country in no time.
Here’s how we organised the trip, what is really worth seeing, and how to move along the coast without throwing money away on taxis.
Getting around: From the airport to the city and trains along the coast
Getting from the airport (Nice Côte d’Azur) to the centre is quite simple and cheap. Forget the taxi. It’s enough to follow the signs for the modern tram in front of the terminal (Line 2 / Ligne 2). In about 25 minutes’ ride you get off right in the city centre, on the main avenue Jean Médecin.
As for visiting the other towns along the coast, we sorted it all out by buying the weekly SUD AZUR EXPLORE PASS ticket. This ticket allows you unlimited use of buses and regional TER trains across the entire French Riviera. An important note: The ticket is valid everywhere except for the actual border crossing into Italy. When we went on a trip to the Italian town of Ventimiglia, we had to pay extra for that part of the journey from the French border into Italy. For timetables and finding your way around the stations, be sure to install the SNCF Connect app.
What to see in Nice
Nice is a large coastal city where old architecture and port life mingle. It’s best explored on foot.
- The Old Town (Vieux Nice): A tangle of narrow streets full of cafés and interesting architecture. Here you’ll also find the Lascaris Palace, an excellent museum of Baroque art.
- Castle Hill (Colline du Château): It lies right between the Old Town and the port (Port Lympia). Climbing up to the viewpoint and the waterfall at the top and enjoying the sunset is an indispensable part of the visit. This is the largest park in Nice and the place with by far the best panoramic view of the city and the coast.
- Architecture: We also walked to the Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (one of the largest outside Russia), as well as to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.
- The flea market and markets (Puces de Nice): If you love antiques, bric-a-brac and old objects, this famous flea market near the port is held regularly (on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings) and is an excellent place to hunt for rare trinkets.
- Parc Phœnix: It’s located at the very entrance to the city, near the airport. This large botanical garden with a glass dome and animals serves as an ideal spot to pass the time if you’re waiting for a flight or catching a later departure.
A sweet pause: Where to eat the best pastries
We’re not the type to make strict plans for restaurants, but one place in Nice completely bowled us over. It’s the Philippe Tayac Pâtisserie. The croissants are perfect, full of butter and flaky, and the cakes look like little works of art. If you love sweets, you mustn’t skip this place.
Trips outside Nice: The towns we visited
The real advantage of Nice is the TER train, with which you quickly reach some of the most beautiful places in Europe.
Here’s what impressed us the most:
- Villefranche-sur-Mer and Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild: This was one of the most beautiful trips for us. The beach in Villefranche-sur-Mer is gorgeous, just like the little town itself. Right on the neighbouring peninsula is the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. The building itself delighted us, and especially its huge and impeccably maintained botanical garden.
- Èze and Saint-Paul-de-Vence: If you love old, stone hilltop villages, these two places are a bullseye. Èze offers a phenomenal view of the sea, while Saint-Paul-de-Vence is full of art galleries and is really beautiful for a leisurely stroll.
- Monaco (a paradise for Formula 1 lovers): The train stops at the only station, which is deep in the hill. As soon as you come out, you’re greeted by the little church of Sainte-Dévote and the famous Turn 1 that bears the same name. Since we were there in mid-April, the city was already preparing for the race – they were busy setting up the grandstands and getting the track in order. We walked along the coast to the famous La Rascasse corner, saw the monument to Juan Manuel Fangio, and then climbed the steps up to the old town and the Prince’s Palace. From up there is an excellent view; we watched the changing of the guard, and we were surprised that the prices in the restaurants up there weren’t excessive at all. We also visited the cathedral where Grace Kelly is buried. When we came back down, we visited the F1 Official Store (though the prices are only for those with deep pockets), passed through the Beau Rivage ascent and corner all the way to Casino Square. For F1 lovers, the sight of the expensive cars parked there and the surrounding jewellery shops of world brands is a special experience.
- Menton: Everyone goes to photograph those famous steps that lead to the church, but the view from there is truly superb. Be sure to go all the way down to the beach itself – watching the colourful town from the shore is a great experience. Antibes: Here we were met by bad weather, but it brought a completely different dimension – the churning sea and the huge waves crashing into the walls looked mighty. We sought refuge from the rain and wind in the Picasso Museum, and ended the day with lunch in the city centre.
- Ventimiglia (Italy): A beautiful little town right on the border that feels a little deserted and authentic, as if time had stopped a couple of centuries ago. The old, charming part is up on the hill, while the newer one lies right along the sea coast.
Although we visited quite a lot in a few days, the pace wasn’t tiring at all because all these places are close to one another. If you’re planning a similar tour, below we’re leaving a few links that will certainly be useful to you for organising it.
Useful links for organising the trip:
- SUD AZUR EXPLORE PASS: Official information and purchase of the weekly ticket – The ticket that covers trains and buses on the Côte d’Azur.
- SNCF Connect app: sncf-connect.com – The essential app for searching timetables and buying additional tickets (like that part into Italy).
- Public transport in Nice (Lignes d’Azur): lignesdazur.com – Information and routes for the tram (Line 2) from the airport.
- Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild: villa-ephrussi.com – The official website for buying tickets for the villa and the botanical garden.
- Booking.com: booking.com – For searching apartments in the central parts of Nice (like ours in Bornala).