For the 11 days we spent on Lefkada, we barely ever switched off the car engine. We found accommodation in Nidri, in an apartment right by the main promenade, but Lefkada is definitely not an island where you sit in one place. Unlike some Greek destinations that lure you with ancient ruins and stone palaces, here the story is completely different. Because of devastating earthquakes in the past, architecture took a back seat, and nature took over the leading role. Its essence lies in the dramatic white cliffs and that dense, unreal turquoise colour of the sea that no photograph can faithfully convey.
Arrival: An island without a ferry
One of the biggest logistical advantages of Lefkada is that it frees you from the chase after ferries. The island is connected to the mainland by a floating bridge, so the crossing is simple, by car. And once you’ve crossed that bridge, your own transport becomes your best ally for exploring everything the coast offers.
For those arriving by plane:
Aktion Airport (Preveza) is on the mainland, just a twenty-minute drive from the main town of Lefkas. From the airport you can reach Lefkas by local KTEL bus or by taxi. From Lefkas itself, buses run regularly to the larger tourist spots like Nidri, Vasiliki or Agios Nikitas. Still, my warm recommendation is to rent a car right at the airport, because relying only on buses you won’t be able to experience the real magic of the wild, western beaches.
The western coast: Views from the cliffs and wild beaches
The western side of the island hides those famous, postcard trump cards: Porto Katsiki, Egremni and Gialos. The water here has that incredible, milky-blue shade, but it also carries a serious, wild temperament with it; the waves can often be huge and powerful.
What makes this coast truly magical are the stops along the way.
- Taverna Oasis and Cafe Panorama: As you drive uphill, be sure to take a break at these places (they have roadside parking). You sit practically on the very edge of the cliff, drinking cold coffee, while beneath you a chasm and an open view of Porto Katsiki open up. That’s the moment when you truly feel all the power and beauty of this island.
- Egremni: The descent to this beach is an adventure in itself. You leave the car about a kilometre and a half from the cliff, and then a series of around 400 steps awaits you. Down below, there are no cafés or sunbeds waiting for you, only pure, raw nature and an incredible sea. (Bear in mind that the return up the steps is a serious workout.)
- Hidden gems: Besides the main attractions, the road also took us to the Kavalikefta and Megali Petra beaches, as well as the wild Milos beach, which are absolutely worth visiting.
The north and the main town: Wind, narrow streets and Greek bakeries
The northern part around the main town (Lefkas) has a completely different rhythm. The water is shallower and the winds constant, which turns this stretch into a paradise for surfers and kiters.
The town of Lefkas itself is extremely charming. Its pedestrian zones are filled with traditional goldsmiths, small craft shops and cafés that give it that authentic, seaside spirit. A walk through these little streets is not complete without stopping at one of the local bakeries. Greek pastries here are fantastic, ideal to grab on the go while you explore the town.
The southern coast: Quiet coves and charming Vasiliki
The southern part of the island offers absolute peace. This part of the island is reminiscent of the calm, pine-forest-fringed coves of the Adriatic.
- Vasiliki and the ferries to Kefalonia: This little place has a short but extremely romantic waterfront promenade dotted with excellent restaurants. Ferries to neighbouring Kefalonia leave from its harbour, so Vasiliki is a great starting point if you want a day trip to another island.
- Ammousa (our favourite): Of all the southern beaches, this one won us over the most. A snug pebble cove with crystal-clear water and the natural shade of pines. It has the perfect balance between an organised and a free part, an excellent restaurant with affordable prices, clean showers and free parking – everything you need for a full day of relaxation.
- Other spots: It’s also worth singling out the beaches of Agiofili, Mikros Gialos and the completely tucked-away, tiny Antitel beach.
An unmissable stop at the very south is also the lighthouse on Cape Lefkatas. Watching the sunset from these white limestone rocks, with the endless sea stretching out before you, is one of those sights that mark an entire trip.
Nidri: Excellent food and a starting point for excursions
Since Nidri was our base, that’s where we most often had dinner. Of all the places, two left the strongest impression: El Greco and Mamma Mia. Both restaurants offer top-quality food, except that Mamma Mia also puts on a great live show programme with dinner. Because of that atmosphere, it often happens that you wait for a table for up to an hour if you haven’t booked in advance.
Nidri is also the main centre for day cruises. Every morning tourist boats leave the harbour on excursions visiting the neighbouring islands – most often they go to Kefalonia (the beautiful little town of Fiskardo), mythical Ithaca, the island of Meganisi, as well as the famous island of Skorpios (once the private island of Aristotle Onassis). If you want a rest from driving, a day on a boat is the perfect option.
During our 11-day stay we didn’t rest much. Lefkada demands to be driven and experienced from every angle. It was precisely that search for the most beautiful coves, together with romantic evenings and breathtaking views from the cliffs, that created memories you don’t forget.
Useful links for organising the trip:
- The official tourist portal: lefkatas.gr – All the basic information about the beaches, roads and events on the island.
- Beaches and maps: lefkadabeaches.com – A detailed overview of all the beaches with descriptions of the access and the conditions on the western coast.
- Ferry timetable (Vasiliki – Kefalonia): gtickets.gr or local agencies in the port of Vasiliki – For checking ferry departures to the neighbouring island.