Our trip to Brač actually began long before the island itself. We decided to break the journey and spend the night in Šibenik, which turned out to be a bullseye. We found accommodation right on the main waterfront, with a fantastic view of the sea and the sunset. We left the car at the Poljana Public Garage and forgot about it. The old core of Šibenik isn’t too large, but those narrow white-stone streets give that real, guaranteed Mediterranean feel. We visited a few local galleries, bought a couple of souvenirs and ended the evening watching the sun set from the waterfront. A city we’ll definitely be glad to return to.
Our map of Brač
Arriving on the island: Ferries and logistics
The next morning we continued towards Split, where the ferry to Brač was waiting for us.
A little tip for drivers: The main and most common route is the ferry on the Split – Supetar line (the crossing takes about 50 minutes). However, if it suits you better, there is another option too – the ferry from Makarska that runs to the town of Sumartin on Brač. Be sure to buy tickets earlier via the Jadrolinija app to avoid the crowds at the counters.
For those arriving by plane: You land at the airport in Split (Resnik). From the airport you have direct shuttle buses to the ferry port in Split itself. Still, Brač is a huge island and my warm recommendation is to rent a car on arrival, because without one you won’t be able to explore all the hidden corners.
Sutivan: Our base and absolute peace
Of the 12 incredible days we spent on the island, our main base was Sutivan. Unlike Supetar, which is a large port, full of amenities and nightlife, Sutivan was unmatched precisely because of its peace. It’s a small, beautiful place with only 4 restaurants, 2 cafés and one bakery. What surprised (and delighted) us at first is that there is no classic seaside promenade dotted with souvenir shops here. In fact, there isn’t a single one. Just you, the old stone, the boats and the silence. That peace gave the whole holiday a special flavour.
Exploring Brač: Vidova Gora, villages and hidden beaches
Since the island offers an abundance of things to do, we weren’t tied to Sutivan alone. Almost every day we visited new places: Bobovišča, Postira, Pučišča (known for its stonemasonry school), Ložišča, Gornji Humac and the beautiful little town of Bol.
- Vidova Gora and local stalls: We climbed Vidova Gora, the highest peak of the Adriatic islands. You can drive almost to the very end by car, and then a short walk to the summit awaits you. The view that opens onto the famous Zlatni Rat beach and neighbouring Hvar is breathtaking. As you drive along these inland roads, you’ll often come across small stalls where locals sell their produce. We stopped there and bought homemade olive oil, honey, jams and wine, incomparably better than anything you’ll find in a shop.
- Kotlina beach (our favourite): Of course, we visited Bol and the famous Zlatni Rat. Still, the biggest impression on us was left by Kotlina beach, set at the foot of a Dominican monastery. That sight, where old church architecture and untouched nature merge with the turquoise sea, is something truly indescribable.
A trip to Hvar: Hot stone and a fortress
From the small place of Milna on Brač, we caught a catamaran and went on a day trip to the town of Hvar. It was a beautiful experience in the middle of a hot summer’s day. Hvar has that incredible glamorous, but also historic, spirit. You get lost in the narrow streets of the Old Town, and then the road leads you uphill, towards the Fortica fortress, which rises mightily above the town. From there stretches the most beautiful view of the Pakleni Islands. The sun was scorching, but it was worth every drop of sweat.
Return to the mainland: Split and Trogir
After 12 days, the ferry brought us back to Split. Before we continued our journey, we set aside a couple of hours to walk through this incredible city. Walking through the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace from the 4th century is a feeling that literally gives you goosebumps. It’s not a classic museum, it’s a living city within ancient walls. People sit there, drink coffee, and above their heads rise Roman columns. After the obligatory coffee on the Riva, we moved on.
The next stop was Trogir, a little town set on a small island between the mainland and Čiovo. The old core is under UNESCO protection for a reason – Romanesque-Gothic architecture, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Kamerlengo fortress make it a real open-air museum. Unfortunately, we only had an hour and a half, but even that quick walk through the stone streets was enough for us to feel its charms, take excellent photographs and scout it out as a potential base for some future holiday.
Murter, Zadar and the Adriatic Highway to finish
From Trogir, the road took us completely unexpectedly to the island of Murter. We were looking for a place to spend the night, and we actually returned to my childhood. It’s the place where I spent up to two months at a time in a campsite with my grandmother and grandfather, and where even today, after 30 years, I know every corner. Nostalgia in its purest form.
The next morning we made a short loop around the island, and then set off along the famous, beautiful Adriatic Highway towards Zadar. Zadar is a story in itself. A city with 3,000 years of history, where within a few metres Roman forums, Venetian architecture and the modern Sea Organ, which plays under the impact of the waves, collide. A walk by the sea, coffee to the sounds of the organ and a view of the Zadar archipelago were the perfect ending to this trip before the final departure home.
Useful links for organising the trip:
- Jadrolinija (Ferries): jadrolinija.hr – The app and website for the timetable and online ticket purchase (Split-Supetar, Makarska-Sumartin).
- Krilo – Kapetan Luka (Catamaran): krilo.hr – For searching and buying tickets for the fast boats (like our trip from Milna to Hvar).
- Booking.com: booking.com – For finding accommodation in Šibenik and at our base in Sutivan.
- Brač Tourist Board: brac.hr – For additional information about the opening hours of local landmarks and beaches.
- Zadar – the Sea Organ: zadar.travel – The official portal of the city of Zadar.